Lucio Castro references cinematic beach scenes from 1970s foreign cinema in this spring 2015 collection. (Think Luchino Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971).) Mix this reference in with “Soviet summers” in the beach towns of Odessa and Sopot and Castro’s Argentinian roots and you have a dynamic hodgepodge and which to create a collection.
Unfortunately, this interesting assemblage of motifs missed the mark in this outing. Though there were separates—especially the shorts and jackets—that could be mixed and matched with garments from other menswear collections, Castro sometimes failed to bring all these references into a cohesive point of view. And the macramé-like belts, which added a folksy quality to the clothes, need to be eliminated.
What does work in this collection is the easy, relaxed vibe of the clothes. Still, the collection had a bit of junior men’s feel to it. And though this collection bordered on a junior menswear resort presentation, there were pieces that could be worn in less temperate spring climates.
Standouts in the collection was Castro’s mélange green Boris cardigan, green reverse stripe shirt, and cream-quilted knit shorts, navy Mac jacket with polka-dot lining, bright blue free plaid shirt, navy and black-stripe textured shorts, and green suede jacket, white concession tee with olive Donnie shorts.
—William S. Gooch
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