Vivienne Tam Fall 2015

Ever heard of “How Stella Got Her Groove Back”? Of course you have; well for fall 2015 Vivienne Tam got her groove back and a whole lot more. Last season though Tam had some pretty dresses—a given for Tam—overall the collection lacked the kind of punch that the fashion cognoscenti had come to expect from Vivienne Tam.

That said; this season Vivienne Tam pulled out all the stops. In previous collections, Tam has looked to Chairman Mao and even President Barack Obama iconography for inspiration, this season Tam looked to the controversial European concept of chinoiserie as seen through the lens of urbanized romance.

Though the ideology behind chinoiserie does have at its core racist connotations and borders at looking at Asian culture as “the other,” the ideology also originated from Europeans attempt to inject some of the exotic or “the other” into the decorative arts. At its height during the 18^th century, chinoiserie reached its peak in Europe when it was assimilated into the rococo style.

For her fall 2015 collection, Vivienne Tam chose to present chinoiserie in all its 18^th century splendor expressed in pearlescent paillettes under the sheer tulle and printed silk shifts with sequined and beaded accents. Baroque matted silver and foiled gold lace is derived from Chinese Chippendale gilt mirrors, appliqued onto high-necked, Victorian-inspired silk blouses.

Tam’s infusion of the chinoiserie influence into this collection was front and center, but not heavy handed. And this collection was not without employing some of the industry’s current trends. The return of metallic fibers could be seen in Tam’s metallic turtleneck with 3D beaded trim. The mesh and micro-mesh was evident in Tam’s China red wool Victorian jacket with quilted back techno mesh and fur trim, as well as Tam’s techno mesh laser-cut applique sweater.

Standouts in this collection were Vivienne Tam’s high neck Victorian phoenix vase cut-out blouse with picture frame lace, camel wool Melton quilted A-line skirt, long floaty dress with reflected Bonsai printed on silk chiffon, and Tam’s wine crepe tunic with black mirror lace overlay with scarlet faux leather skirt.

—William S. Gooch