Desigual Fall 2016

For several seasons, Desigual has been a foil and competition to similar global brand, Custo Barcelona. Where for the past few years, Desigual has stolen much of Custo Barcelona’s thunder and consumer base, it was still seen in fashion circles as a less expensive alternative to Custo Barcelona without the fashion-as-art–design aesthetic.

That may have changed with Desigual’s fall 2016 collection. Both brands are based in Spain—Custo in Barcelona, Desigual in Madrid—and both brands have established themselves as brand that inject bold color, a kaleidoscope of patterns and fabrications projected through a prism of modernity and fashion-forward sensibility. Still, Desigual has always presented the more wearable collection that has had more an appeal to American consumers. And while every season they have attempted to include more fashion-forward sensibility to their collections, Custo Barcelona still reigns supreme in that respect.

For fall 2016, that design and cultural aesthetic divide has become narrower. Referencing global cultural influences with a heavy nod to the early 1970s, Desigual in this fall 2016 collection has almost caught up to Custo Barcelona, particularly when it comes to now and next aspect of design.

In previous seasons Desigual’s strong point was in the styling of their collections, the bold color and print combinations and the joy and ebullience of their runway presentations. Still, what were absent, at times, was the unique design perspectives.  How many shift dresses in glorious color print combinations can continue to excite consumers every season? That design point of view wears its welcome out over time.

Realizing that, Desigual this season put a strong emphasis on design. And it paid off!! This was a collection for that hip fashionista that marches to the beat of her own fashion drum and remains stylish at the same time.

One of the more interesting fabrication combinations in the collection was Desigual’s black and white plaid paired with dark denim or geometric black and white print. An added attraction was the smart Barnaby Street–like caps and chapeaus.  Also a standout in this 2016 outing was the richly embroidered overcoats and Russian capes.

Overall, this collection has a richness and texture that was missing in previous showings.  Standout looks in this collection include multi-abstract geometric patchwork overcoat with matching turtleneck and printed tights, black and plaid knit overcoat, Russian-print wool-mix overcoat with denim jack and skirt, and faux fur–lined denim vest over floral chiffon blouse and geometric easy pants.

Custo Barcelona, Desigual brought their A-game for fall 2016. It’s time to arm up. The battle is on!!

—William S. Gooch