Chado Ralph Rucci Fall/Winter 2013

Season after season Ralph Rucci does not disappoint. And fall/winter 2013 was the first season that Ralph Rucci presented his fall/winter collection at Lincoln Center for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. In previous seasons, Lincoln Center audiences have been privileged to be mesmerized by Rucci’s vision funneled through his spring/summer collections. However, this season audiences bore witness to Rucci’s genius and great sense of style expressed through winter coats, jackets, garments that utilized a variety of fabrics and Rucci’s unique perspective on layering.

In previous outings, Rucci’s collections have been a continuous, focused compendium on his unparalleled ability to assemble different influences and make those points of view uniquely Ralph Rucci.  Unfortunately, in this collection there was an uncharacteristic small, out-of-focus dip in what is usually a clear, concentrated point of view. For about eight looks, Rucci inserted a few garments, though beautifully designed, that seemed a bit dated and were in a color palette that would not appeal to a wider demographic. Still, for most of the collection, Rucci’s point of view was classic, sophisticated and plush, while pointedly current and fashion-forward, subtly employing current trends that do not overwhelm his point of view, but expand Rucci’s specific perspective for each collection.

In this collection, Rucci continued to find that synergy between modernism, classic pieces, and garment that can also satisfy the palette of consumers who want fashion-as-art. We also got to see Rucci’s particular approach to layering this season, evidenced in Rucci’s fascination with slacks overlaid with transparent dresses. And as with other designers this season, Rucci employed the trend of cutouts in some interesting ways.

The genius in this fall/winter collection is that Rucci takes his customer on a journey. And this season the journey goes from the classic, sophisticated pieces that his loyal following has to come to expect to introducing them to new innovative textile and technologies—the voluminous cashmere neoprene coat, and a black shag coat of synthetic hair and mylar—to Rucci’s trajectory of where fashion is heading. Fashion is always now and next, and for Rucci next is the synthesis of haute couture, innovative textiles and combination of fashion as futuristic art.

With this committed focus to where is brand is heading, Rucci is miles ahead of most American designer and becoming legend in his own time. And that is how it should be!!

—William S. Gooch