Nautica Fall/Winter 2013

For its 30^th Anniversary Nautica did something it hasn’t done in a long time; a runway show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. And they chose the stage arena at Lincoln Center to celebrate their anniversary.

Typically, Nautica does presentations/installations with male models posing in tableaus or scenes that detail their inspiration for a particular season. This season, Nautica not only expanded to the biggest stage at Lincoln Center, but also included looks that appear in retail stores that don’t necessarily show up in their collections for the press.

Creative director Chris Cox looked to the seafaring expeditions of Artic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton for inspiration. This reference was evidenced in fur-trimmed parkas and other outerwear with fur. There was also a substantial amount of vibrant colors in this collection, from bright yellow and variations on red and rust orange to the standard Nautica blue.

Like some other menswear brands this season, Cox employed wool leggings and fitted athletic pants; a fashion point of view that some male consumers will not embrace. Yet, Nautica found an athletic/activewear way to present wool and nylon leggings paired with parkas, hoodies and tailored outerwear that would isolate a lot of male buyers from this new direction in men’s pants.

This fall/winter collection was more tailored with more flattering, sexier silhouettes than seen in usual Nautica fare. And unlike other collections, Nautica showed more jackets and pieces that could work in an office setting.

Chris Cox demonstrated in this collection that he is transitioning the Nautica brand beyond its traditional boating aesthetic and moving the iconic brand into menswear that embraces a larger demographic. And I say bravo for that!!

—William S. Gooch