Nicholas K Fall/Winter 2013

Season after season, Nicholas Kunz finds inventive ways to expand upon the draped, boho-chic, layered aesthetic of the brand. Though praise should be given for this accomplishment, for fall/winter 2013 the signature look of Nicholas K seems to be relying too heavily on what has worked in the past without much direction toward what consumers currently want to buy.

Inspired by the Danish explorer Peter Freuchen’s Artic explorations at the turn of the twentieth century, there was a definite wintry, northern hemisphere reference in this collection expressed through a color palette that ranged from silvery greys to steel blue to occasional tie-dyed green variations and neutral palettes of black, ecru and beige. And there were some interesting shearlings and hoodie combinations that conjured up images of dark Artic nights. Still, this rather somber collection sometimes failed to bring the excitement and fashion-forward sensibility seen in previous outings.

Where Kunz was successful was in the menswear pieces.Though pedestrian at times,  the menswear did have some retail viability, as opposed to many of the women’s looks that looked similar to the Kunz’s nomad aesethtic, with some variation, seen in previous collections. Also, the layering worked better in the men’s garments where well-tailored coats and parkas layered over hoodies gave an easy, consumer-friendly look to this collection. Unfortunately, sometimes the layering on the women’s looks appeared haphazard and unflattering.

Much can still be said for Kunz’s commitment to Nicholas K’s signature look. And with some rethinking and incorporation of a more current direction, this signature look can have market viability and consumer appeal.

—William S. Gooch