Monique Lhuillier Fall/Winter 2012

In contrast to her spring/summer 2012 collection, in which Lhuillier funneled her couture aesthetic through a prism of streamlined, athletic-inspired garments, Lhuillier fall/winter 2012 collection was a fashion compendium on all things Lhuillier. From the lava and volcanic stones prints to the black and red palette, inspired by the “Year of the Dragon,” this season Lhuillier’s silhouettes were sharper and more forceful, even teetering on the edge of bondage and control.

Lhuillier, like many designers this season, embraced a 50’s silhouette evidenced in dresses that had more volume and gowns that gave a nod to the classic Hollywood glamor of the 1950s. By adding jumpsuits, slacks, and separates in this collection, Lhuillier is attempting to expand her brand beyond red-carpet and award-season fare.

The genius of Lhuillier in this outing was in her lava/volcanic stone prints. How the artisans that work with Lhuillier managed to print the lava pattern directly on to lace without diminishing the lacy effect of the fabric is a embellishment mystery; still, the look evoked a mood of sensual elegance.

Lhuillier combined the current trends of sheer fabrics, lace and sequined embellishments expertly in this collection, without one trend overshadowing the others. And the standout piece was the closing look, a red lace ball gown with organza layered skirt.

—William Gooch