Monique Lhuillier Bridal Spring 2015

Monique Lhuillier welcomed us into what she called her “ethereal daydream” for her spring 2015 bridal collection.

More than most collection showings, Lhuillier’s setting for her collection showing was a telling window into the designer’s inspiration. According to show notes distributed before the show, the grey set upon which the models settled themselves in various poses after processing around the room was inspired by John Singer Sargent portraiture. (Sargent was especially known for his depictions of the luxe life during the Edwardian era and even now, the idea of formal portraiture speaks to a certain level of sophistication and luxury even now.)

Lhuillier’s collection cleverly reflected not only that luxe sensibility, but aspects of Edwardian era fashion, particularly in the softer shapes, lighter weight constructions and profusion of lace—all three of which have been increasingly popular trends in bridal fashion, especially since the 2011 wedding of the Duchess of Cambridge (a.k.a. Kate Middleton).

Make no mistake; despite the gentle nods to the past, particularly in Lhuillier’s use of tastefully embroidered Chantilly lace, one of the designer’s chief materials along with tulle and silk satin organza, there were plenty of contemporary touches.

In one ivory long sleeved gown, illusion (another growing trend in bridal) was draped softly over a floral lattice embellished sheath with a daring slit up the front. In another very “now” look, Lhuillier created a lingerie-inspired gown with an alencon lace corset and a full tulle tiered skirt. Other details utilized throughout the collection included cascading hemlines, sleeves, beaded shrugs and overskirts—a nod perhaps to brides seeking different looks for their ceremony and reception.

Nowhere was the contemporary edge more evident than in Lhuillier’s use of color. Shades of white and off-white have become standard in bridal and Lhuillier’s 2015 collection showed everything from white and ivory to blush and grey. But Lhuillier included a smattering of bold (for bridal) tones as well—a cornflower blue she called hydrangea and a gentle pistachio green shown in a stunning strapless embroidered A-line gown with a matching embroidered illusion coverlet.

Clearly in the Lhuillier bridal universe there is a gentle harmony to be found between the past and the present.

—Karyn D. Collins