ELLERY Pre-Fall 2016

As most designers this season continued to look to the 1970s for inspiration, ELLERY followed suit by also referencing the era of disco, bell bottomed pants, and sparkle and shine.

Unlike many design houses, ELLERY stayed away from the 70’s era obvious choice, disco/Studio 54. Instead, the New Zealand design house drew inspiration from another dance form, the staged theatrical stylings of Bob Fosse.

Fosse, perhaps, was at the height of his choreographic genius in the 70s. During this period Fosse created some of most pivotal work. From “Pippin” to “Dancin” to “Chicago,”—you also have to include the classic film “Cabaret” and the dance cult film “All that Jazz”—Fosse incorporated the release from sexual inhibitions of the past and the exquisite synthesis of ballet, modern, theater dance, and lyrical jazz all seen through his special vision of theatre and dance.

For pre-fall 2016, ELLERY attempted to capture Fosse’s flair for the theatrical and flamboyant sensibility in a collection that harkens back to an era in fashion where the unusual and show stopping garments were showcased a lot more frequently. The standard 70s silhouettes of bell bottomed pants and a juxtaposition of masculine and feminine forms are a definite part of this outing, and interestingly those elements are hallmarks of Fosse’s choreography.

Still, creative director Kym Ellery takes these elements a step further.  Bell bottomed pants flair out at the knees and end above the ankles. Masculine topcoats and jackets reveal more feminine silhouettes underneath. And the neutral color palette—which is the primary color palette in the collection—is more modern and utilitarian in scope than what was employed in the 70s.

The individual pieces nod to the 1970’s with a uniquely modern riff. Fabric choices harmoniously clash; traditional suiting and British silk houndstooth meeting foam jersey, Japanese cupro, and Swiss lurex net. Classic suits are reinterpreted in the ELLERY vein with flared trousers, slim coats and drawstring blazers all accented with contrasting buttons. A classically monochromatic color palette is highlighted with metallic electric blue and moss green, burgundy, rust and a dash of leopard print.

Though this pre-fall 2016 outing borders on the theatrical and avant garde, there are a significant amount of wearable pieces in the collection. After all, ELLERY’s design aesthetic is not for the faint of heart, but for that fashion risk taker. And this collection definitely lives up to the brand’s style DNA. And we are better for it!!

—William S. Gooch