Bibhu Mohapatra’s fall 2015 was subdued and rather conservative. In previous collections Mohapatra infused his collections with gilded embellishments fitting from a designer who has ancestral roots from the Silk Road. This season, Mohapatra went in a totally different direction.
Inspired by French sculptor Camille Claudel and Irish revolutionary Maud Gonne, Mohapatra chose this season to use a neutral color palette as well as colors and hues that spoke to his East Indian heritage—turmeric yellow, clay red, and indigo. Also an influence was the recent death of Mohapatra’s father which may had a more indelible influence on this collection than Maud Gonne or Camille Claudel.
This rather somber collection did not lack sophistication and some well tailored clothes, especially coats, that would appeal to the “ladies who lunch” crowd. When Mohapatra did include some sequined glam to this collection, the silhouettes were matronly and restrained to provide the needed excitement. That said; the pop and dazzle married with a youthful exuberance that so many fashion pundits have to come to expect from Mohapatra was obviously absent.
Standouts in this outing was Mohaptra’s final look, a cape-back black and white gown, as well as a rust red one-shouldered crepe dress, and astrakhan pencil skirt with bow blouse.
—William S. Gooch
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