Carlos Campos Spring 2016

For his spring 2016 collection, Carlos Campos was inspired by the “Forastero;” the mysterious outsider, the stranger in unfamiliar territory. The outsider is a common theme in Latin American literature and culture. This “Forastero” could be from a capital or the provinces and has relocated for business or work.  He sits alones in cafes and plazas as he goes about his daily routine, known to no one.

“Growing up in Honduras, I as always struck by the Forasteros, these men who came to our town to work, who kept to themselves, and although they were outsiders, carried themselves with a quiet confidence as if they had always been there,” says Campos. “Often, they dressed in a sleek uniform-like way that telegraphed that they were from another place without making them stand out.”

In previous seasons, Campos has exploited his continued affection for color blocking, usually expressed in bold colors with very streamlined, masculine silhouettes. This season Campos minimized his predilection for color blocking, staying with his color palette of hunter green and navy blue. “My designs for this season may seem lighter, yet underneath they are still very tailored—with an almost clinical approach to layering,” detailed Campos.

Though there were more suits in this collection and a more structured formal approach than in previous outings, this collection did not contain the youthful approach or Campos’ genius for chic, fashion-forward projections that are accessible and consumer friendly seen in his other collections. The belted looks on many of his jackets, aged the masculine silhouettes and seemed more appropriate for an older demographic and by elongating the welt pockets on his bomber jackets and employing wide-legged trousers, and waist tie straps, Campos may have unconsciously placed those looks in the mid-1970s, reminiscent of jackets and slacks seen in Blaxploitation films.

Still, Campos is a talented menswear designer, and though this collection was misstep there were garments that demonstrated his creative brilliance. Standouts included white woven short with palm leaf and hunter green “forastero” camo lounge short, dark navy-coated canvas hooded cropped jacket with white open collar woven shirt and hunter green wool tailored short, and white cotton jersey tank with rose compass print.

—William S. Gooch