Chado Ralph Rucci Spring/Summer 2013

The writer of the book of Ecclesiastes states there is nothing new under the sun. And though that is true, there are those great design masters who know how to cull and assemble from a variety of sources, familiar images and motifs in such a new and interesting way, it is though the familiar is reborn. Ralph Rucci is one of those masters.

There is no doubt that Ralph Rucci assembles very well. In fact, Rucci assembles so well it is almost as if you are looking at familiar silhouettes for the first time. Rucci’s spring/summer 2013 collection was no exception. With Rucci there is the consistent attention to detail, intricate handwork and artisanal techniques that speak to Rucci’s mien for couture. There are also glimpses of Rucci’s penchant for Asian motifs. What this spring/summer collection demonstrates so beautifully is Rucci’s evolution into expressions of bold color, which we began to see in his spring/summer 2012 collection.

With this outing we see all the masters at work. We see the streamlined simplicity of Halston, we see the grandeur volume of Balenciaga, and we identify other influences.  We also see silhouettes from the 60s and 70s. Still, with the panoply of great masters and influences that Rucci has assembled, the signature point of view that stands front and foremost is Rucci himself.

For his spring/summer 2013 collection Rucci dresses most women at every jointure of their day. And he gloriously dresses women from a wider age demographic than in some previous collections. There are great looks that can work at the office, an elegant dinner at Le Cirque, and opening night at the Metropolitan Opera.

Though Rucci’s oeuvre is classic elegance, his point of view is not dated or staid. His opening look, black patent and trapunto silk faille jacket and pant, was sophisticated, yet still youthful. And from Rucci’s Ultrasuede coral dress and smock to his pink bugle-beaded feather dress, this collection went beyond sublime and rested solidly in the realm of divine.

What more can be said. Viva Chado Ralph Rucci!!

—William S. Gooch