Custo Barcelona Fall 2016

For fall 2016, Dalmau Custo looked to the 1970s in this 20^th anniversary of the Custo Barcelona brand.  Contrary to what Dalmau Custo brings each season; this was a more minimalist, pared down collection. And in some respect that was a good thing.

As a brand Custo Barcelona’s menswear garments have always had more wearability; however, for fall 2016 the brand’s women’s pieces were more wearable without sacrificing the brand’s DNA of quirky, fashion-forward sensibility. Where in past outings, the brand always mixed and matched a wide array of color palettes, fabrications, and textures, for fall 2016 the brand instituted a more pared down approach to the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Dalmau Custo’s restraint produced looks that were more wearable and would perhaps appeal to a wider demographic. For the past few seasons the brand has looked to create garments that were more accessible and appealing to that consumer who is risk taking but still wants wearable clothes. And this new perspective is working for Custo Barcelona.

With Desigual stealing much of the thunder of Custo in recent season and the brand shuttering over 200 stores worldwide, this new business and creative model was necessary. Still, diehard Custo fans were reticent about this new approach, hoping that the brand did not become more commercial and its signature DNA stayed in tact.

The fall 2016 collection demonstrates that Custo’s fan base need not be worried. In this collection entitled “Reborn,” Dalmau Custo repositions the brand and this is evidenced in some of the first looks of the collection. The brand has always been known for creating one-of-a-kind fabrics and textures, and with the creation of the raffia interwoven with a metallic thread combined with a shiny fabric that is a cross between patent leather and vinyl, the brand is staying true to its design aesthetic.

In past seasons, Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks have out trumped the brand’s women’s garments in terms of wearable appeal. However, this season Dalmau Custo minimalist and restrained approach was also applied to the women’s looks, producing garments that would have a wider appeal.

Standout looks include the leopard coat looks combined with black raffia, the purple and white ombre looks, and the brand’s black shiny vinyl ruffled garments. Happy 20^th.

—William S. Gooch