Dominic Louis Spring 2014

For spring 2014 Dominic Louis looked to texture and shape expressed through the prism of beautiful symmetry that is restrained at times and erratic on occasion. Since 2013 Dominic Louis has set a standard for himself at being a master in construction and for having acumen at working in asymmetrical shapes and interesting combinations of fabrics.

In this outing, though there was more fluidity and ease of movement to his work mixed with hardware that reflects Louis’ slight predilection for warrior/armor-like pieces and embellishment that conjure up images of domination, Louis pushed this collection to have more retail viability and commercial appeal.

Like many designers this season, Louis stayed with a mostly neutral palette with the exception of some beautiful custom prints in collaboration with street artist WHISBE. These collaboration combined WHISBE’s street art mentality with Louis’ penchant for a whimsical high-fashion aesthetic, resulting an interesting synthesis of hard ands soft.

Standouts in this collection was Louis’ structured tops with full skirts that spoke to a 50s aesthetic, digital-print crop top with navy shorts layered over with diaphanous organza sarong skirt, and asymmetrical white wrap dress with plunging neckline. Though some of the more constructed pieces were interesting stretch for Louis, some of the potential beauty of these garments was lost in the fit and style.

The one drawback to this otherwise successful collection was the venue, The Out NYC, and choice of models. The collection would have would served better with models that really understood Louis’ aesthetic and show off the garments to better effect.  For next season, Louis should take into consideration that innovative clothes need good lighting, great venue and models who get the designer’s point of view.

—William S. Gooch