Duckie Brown Spring 2016

Fashion Editor icon Diana Vreeland believed that the fashion industry should predict and produce what the market wants even before consumers know they want it. A wonderful concept, if it can be put into practice. Unfortunately, with the corporatization of the fashion industry more often consumers are left with pedestrian repeats of what they already in their wardrobes rather than fashion-forward next garments.

Duckie Brown’s approach to fashion has always been outré with creative directors Stephen Cox and Daniel Silver bravely marching to the beat of their own drum. This spring 2016 collection was no exception.

From the cheers in the audience after the show Cox and Silver obviously have a loyal fan base. That said; in this particular outing, though fashion forward, many of the pieces in this collection were far from wearable and would possibly appeal only to a small niche menswear consumer base.

Though there were some beautiful diaphanous men’s shirts, or should I say blouses, in the collection, the fashion-forward projection was way outside of what even, perhaps, Vreeland would predict fits the projected design palette of the fashionable male consumer. The organza shirts were very beautiful and I am sure there is a male consumer for this particular type of aesthetic, but the oversized trousers just looked lost on the very slender male models with many of them tripping over the length of the trousers. Still, menswear designers like Cox and Silver with a oeuvre for the unusual are so important to the menswear market. And though in this particular outing, the collection was uneven and barely wearable, Cox and Silver should not lose heart and continue on their design trajectory.

Standout looks in the collection were the design duo’s silk half neck hoody, black cap sleeve jacket with black trousers, and navy satin chiffon Harrington jacket.

—William S. Gooch