New York Fashion Week: Men’s Day sponsored by Cadillac continued what had started three seasons ago by appearing as a part of New York Fashion: Men’s (NYFWM) in its inaugural season. Although this 4-day week of men’s fashion put together by CFDA now incorporates the menswear collection seen at Superindustria Studio, the 12 menswear brands that show at Superindustria are set a part from the CFDA–sponsored shows at Skylight Modern.
That said; several of the menswear designers that showed at Superindustria tried to stay with traditional menswear sportswear looks that are very accessible and appealing to the male consumer. In this lay the problem with some of the collections. In a market where there is an oversaturation of milquetoast brands that can be cheaply purchased at megastores, attempting to complete on that level may be a futile attempt for menswear brands that are not household names.
Thankfully, Eponymous was one of Superindustria’s cadres of menswear brands that went in the other direction. For observation of Eponymous’ spring 2016 collection it is obvious that designer Hvrminn has a tailoring background.
Though Hvrminn used mostly traditional menswear fabrics and was influenced by a 1930s/40s Chicago gangster reference there was something fresh and modern about this collection. Hvrminn’s incorporation of army camouflage print into a great parka and double-breasted suit was brilliant. These kinds of unique touches gave this collection vitality and freshness that though grounded in traditional male silhouettes was outside of the box of milquetoast American sportswear exhibited by some others spring 2016 menswear collections.
—William S. Gooch
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