Fall/Winter 2013 Bridal Report

 Trendspotting in bridal fashion can be a tricky business indeed.

The bridal market is vast to put it mildly. Even within one line, there is a decided effort to present a little bit of something for seemingly every woman, the better to retain a customer whose heart may be set on a certain look, fashion mores be damned. While there seems to be a trend towards gowns with just a hint of beading or none at all, an equal number of gowns could be found up and down the designer spectrum with enough dazzling beading to seemingly light up the entire city of New York.

Similarly, the colored wedding gown trend has slowed down considerably this season though these pale peach, blue and pink confections could still be seen here and there. As one sales representative of a higher end line explained, most brides said they just couldn’t see themselves wearing a colored gown, and salons clamored for versions in traditional white or cream. Cocktail-length and mini dress styles also continued to pop up here and there throughout the collections, though not in the numbers that would suggest a true, overall trend.

Yet another wrinkle in bridal gown trends lies in the nature of an industry in which styles shown now are kept in production for a couple of years, and often longer for bestselling styles.That longevity of styles is perpetuated by the unique timing of weddings—items seen on the runways now will only begin to appear in bridal salons next year (these were the fall/winter 2013 collections) for weddings that may be as much of another year down the road, say in 2014 or later. And, no doubt, some of those in the bridal parties or guest lists of those 2014 nuptials will eye a trend or a gown for their own wedding which may be a year or two away.

The phenomenon in bridal helps to explain why for so many years the most popular bridal silhouette has been the strapless A-Line‒sweetheart or straight, cream or white, bedazzled or lightly beaded. Despite the many variations on the theme, the basic strapless A-Line has quietly ruled the American bridal runway for years now.

Ever so gradually, though, new trends are emerging. Here’s a look at some of the most dominant:

New silhouette

After decades at the top, the strapless A-line silhouette may be about to cede its position at the top of the bridal fashion world. The new star: the fit and flare, a gown that skims the body to mid-thigh and then fans out. There are some variations to this theme including more exaggerated mermaid styles (fitted to the knee with a more dramatic pouf of skirt), modified fit and flare styles with are less fitted through the hips. But there’s no doubt that the fit and flare now rules the bridal fashion runway.

Neckline styles varied with sleeveless styles seeming to now rival strapless designs as the most popular neckline. Bateau necklines and surprise back details included beaded spines also were seen in a number of collections.

Waist details have also been a relatively new trend with many gowns now featuring a wide ribbon around the waist or a beaded band. Indeed one group of vendors focused exclusively on beaded waistbands, their heavy traffic offering proof of the popularity of that trend.

Of course, for those still craving a more “traditional” look, designers are certainly still offering plenty of strapless A-Line gowns as well as ballgowns. But, even here in the traditional silhouettes, there were some interesting twists. Ann Barge, for example, offered her brides a two-for-one option—a fit and flare gown with a detachable tulle ballgown overskirt that opened in the front to reveal the skirt of the gown.

High fashion influence

In regular fashion, the fact that an increasing number of designers are going their own way and ignoring trends, is not groundbreaking news. But in bridal, the fact that so many fashion designers are now doing bridal and in their own distinctive way, is indeed newsworthy. After all, it wasn’t that long ago that many designers studiously avoided bridal because the feeling was that bridal, though certainly lucrative, did not carry the same cache in the fashion world.

The overwhelming success in fashion of designers who sprang out of the bridal world like Vera Wang, Monique Lhuillier and Reem Acra, has certainly helped bridge the gap between the fashion and bridal worlds. This season saw fashion-based, ready-to-wear designers, from Rafael Cennamo and Nicole Miller to Douglas Hannant and Badgley Mischka continue to push the envelope in terms of how fashionable bridal can be.

In many cases, these were bridal lines that offered a wide variety of options (including some more traditional visions) but with an overall emphasis on providing women with something different, perhaps more evening gown than bridal gown in some cases.

Cennamo, for example, offered a series of gowns including some that were truly red carpet worthy such as a long sleeved pearl encrusted sheath gown, and a Flapper-esque gown draped with rows of glass beads. “I thought I could have a different point of view and try to offer something more fashion forward,” Cennamo said of his three-year‒old bridal line.

Modern modesty

From sleeves of varying lengths to illusion bodices that cover the chest in a sheer layer of fabric, bridal lines at all price points, are offering brides more options to cover up. Some credit the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton. Others said the trend is the influence of Hollywood stars such as Anne Hathaway who have opted for more covered styles. And some sales representatives said the trend reflected brides’ requests to be more covered up for comfort reasons. Whatever the reason, the trend is undeniable with almost every line showing at least one gown with an illusion bodice.

Sleeves, though less popular than the illusion bodice, also appeared quite frequently, sometimes in combination with illusion bodices, with designers employing everything from lace to beaded illusion.

Lace

There was a time not too long ago when only a smattering of designers such as Claire Pettibone and offered full lace gowns. Now, thanks perhaps to the Kate Middleton-effect, lace gowns have become one of the hottest trends in bridal.

Some lines offered interesting twists to the trend such as Anne Barge who offered an ombre lace gown that graduated from dark blush at the bottom to a very pale cream at the top.  Eva Milady celebrated the art of vintage lace. Justin Alexander featured gowns bursting with delicate lace appliqués.

—Karyn D. Collins