Frederick Anderson Spring 2023

Frederick Anderson has always been associated with dressing the Upper Eastside female set. Anderson’s entrée into that sacrosanct set started when he was associated with former business partner Douglas Hannant, whose fashion brand is now defunct. Hannant even had a store in the Plaza Hotel that catered to that Upper Eastside woman who wanted garments that she could wear at her jointure of her day.

Since Anderson struck out on his own, he has continued to attempt to satisfy the fashion palette of that Upper Eastside fashionista. And he has some success with that kind of customer. However, times that are a changing. And that Upper Eastside customer is no longer the woman that Anderson once appealed to.

That said, Anderson still focuses his fashion collections on that Upper Eastside woman, yet with a more modern sensibility. And his spring 2023 collection was successful in that respect, well almost.

Do anyone that has experienced Anderson’s collection it is apparent that he is a master at knitwear. And his knitwear work is one of the elements of this collection that stands out the most because Anderson marries his knitwear with a modern sensibility and daring not seen from most knitwear designers. There is a definite in-your-face-sexiness with Anderson’s knitwear which elevated this element beyond the ladies who lunch set.

Anderson silky lounge and evening wear were the definite hits of this collection. Though several of those garments conjured up images of similar Halston collections from the 1970s, Anderson did manage to incorporate some of his own unique touches.

Many of the free-flowing garments masterfully enveloped the body, showing off curves and dipping to regions reserved for only the invited. Still, there were selections in this collection that would appeal to a more conservative consumer.

Anderson opened his show with Black Lives Matter and Gay Rights iconography and images. Bravo for those strong political statements. Still, how those political statements fit into this collection was unclear. This collection was more about how an updated Upper Eastside woman currently lives her life. And those political stances, though a reflection of Anderson’s political affiliations, don’t necessarily reflect his consumer.

Anderson’s evolution as a fashion designer has come to the fore in this spring 2023 collection. And there is an expectation that he will continue to grow and master his craft.

—William S. Gooch