Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2016

Ines Di Santo is known for her bridal mermaid silhouette. Surprisingly, this season there were very few mermaid bridal gowns; in fact, this collection was a bit of a departure from the Ines Di Santo most bridal editors have become familiar with.

For several seasons, Di Santo has made her stamp on the bridal market by creating bridal looks that are infused with a strong patina of couture craftsmanship. However, this season Di Santo went more commercial.

While many bridal industry professionals love the sculptural beauty of Di Santo’s bridal couture-like gowns, the more commercial direction of the brand does not diminish the sheer beauty and craftsmanship that is still a part of the Di Santo oeuvre

For fall 2016, Ines Di Santo was inspired by light and all of its beautiful qualities. Di Santo’s reference to light and light’s many incarnation explains the ethereal quality of the collection and her move away from her tried-and-true aesthetic of more sculptural gowns with embellished bustiers. And though the light airiness of the collection was beautiful and more commercially viable, Di Santo’s signature aesthetic was missed.

Still, Ines Di Santo understands something that so many designers fail to understand. All collections look better when you have top models walking in her show. And the new direction of your brand will be received better if the clothes walked down the runway on some of the best runway models in the industry.

Though Di Santo’s ball gowns with scattered floral embellishments were bit Walt Disney, there were some exceptional standouts that deserve mention and celebration. Standout looks in the collection were Di Santo’s sensual lace sheath with deep V neckline and illusion sleeve accented by appliqued cuffs, sleeveless sheath in Four Ply Silk with scooped neckline and ballet back, sleeveless dropped waist gown with collaged lace tulle skirt and dramatic cathedral-length train, and beaded lace mini with asymmetrical skirt.

—William S. Gooch