John Varvatos Spring 2016

With John Varvatos it is always about rock n’ roll and since the start of his brand in the late 90s, his love of that musical genre is the central theme season after season. In fact, it truly is the signature look of his clothes.

What is amazing about Varvatos is that time after time he continue his love affair with 70s rock n’ roll as expressed in the styling and look of his clothes and manages to create collections that seem current, fresh and in vogue with what contemporary men want to wear. Interestingly, his collections—though homages to the iconic CBGB’s era of where his Bowery store is in the vicinity of—never seems dated or just a reflection of that bygone era.

I suppose the reason Varvatos is able to bring vitality and effervescent to his sometimes all-consuming predilection has a lot to do with the styling, the cut of his garments, and this season, in particular, his choice of models. Surprisingly, this season Varvatos’ choice of model was a bit older and not as slender as seen in some previous seasons.

Also, his choice of reference this season Southern California early 70s nightclub life—think rock n’ roll haunts in Laurel Canyon which could have housed Jefferson Airship, Led Zeppelin, Fleetwood Mac, maybe even Pink Floyd—mixed with Varvatos’ distillation on a pinstripe aesthetic made this collection take on a look of modern, yet hip, sophistication and sharpness.

Where in previous outings, Varvatos’ collections rendered up new perspectives on rock n’ roll chic. However, this time around Varvotos’ integration of the pinstripe aesthetic elevated his man from just the guy who resembles and loves that British, David Bowiesque sleekness, but also is an international jetsetter who has an affection for looks that extol good construction and great fabrics.

In a nutshell, this collection moved the Varvatos guy from rock n’ roll fiefdom to the imperial courts of rock n’ roll legends. And though the color palette was somewhat somber compared to other outing, Varvatos’ muted colors and neutrals gave his dandier looks weight, crispness, and more wearability.

—William S. Gooch