Kenneth Ning Spring 2016

Of all the collections shown at Industria Superstudio on the first day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Kenneth Ning’s spring 2016, perhaps, had the most impact. Particularly, for editors, stylists, and industry professionals that are looking for that fashion-forward next that has some retail appeal.

Inspired by the bustling medina of faraway desert lands that evokes colorful spices and patterned tapestries, Ning sought to find the balance between the frenetic chaos that is a part of exotic outdoors bazaars and the tranquility of the arabesque architecture of Arabian Nights. These influences were infused with vibrant, youthful projections reminiscent of 80s British youth culture paired with the clean, streamlined tailoring of modern sportswear.

Ning brilliantly incorporated floral jacquards and lace that referenced ornate mandalas and other North African motifs. All these different influences helped to forward Ning’s unique combination of graphic elements extracted from traditional Arab motifs mixed and matched with innovative techniques and an expansion of male silhouettes.

While his mélange of influences was a welcome change from some of the pedestrian looks seen from other menswear designers, Ning might want to rethink his lacy looks which were overwrought and bordered on costume fare. Still, this spring 2016 collection was a welcome change and infused a much needed injection of fashion-forward next into this inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

Standout looks were Ning’s black and white long jacquard jackets with slender slacks and his green and floral floral print shirts with wide-legged pants.

—William S. Gooch