Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2014

Watch out! The new Marc by Marc Jacobs girl is one tough chick. She may have a wry sense of humor, as evidenced by the clever sayings on her socks. But make no mistake; this girl is ready to kick some serious butt.

The fall 2014 Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was all about a new attitude for the label as seen through the label’s new designers—design director Luella Bartley and new creative director Katie Hillier, who was formerly an accessories consultant for the brand. The label also introduced its new name—MBMJ, which was emblazoned on everything from bandanas and shoes to the front of a dress.

Oh yes, and the boys have been kicked out of the Marc by Marc Jacobs clubhouse.

The new Marc by Marc Jacobs line was all about the girls in their high top, sneaker-wearing, pigtailed glory. In the new MBMJ world, swagger is the new black. Company officials said the new attitude was a deliberate attempt to push the label—the Jacobs world’s moneymaker—forward out of a creative rut.

Bartley’s own line was known for its punk and British rock influences. The new MBMJ showed its street smarts with bold references to a colorful range of influences—BMX bike culture, Japanese comics and ninjas, and cheeky British school kids, and oh, yes, early Marc Jacobs, which Bartley said in interviews that she was deliberately referencing.

The combination of influences were, at times, both jarring and exhilarating. Perhaps nowhere was that more the case than with the cartoon-bright large plaid in royal and bright red, and more often than not topped by a huge, origami bow—a motif also repeated in solid colors.

While the BMXish tops and dresses may have seemed a bit young, there was a downtown vibe that will likely prove appealing to many. We’re guessing that the double skirts may be modified for retail. But, the pleated detailing and prep school blazers, styled with ninja warrior belts, are certain to find their way into a number of closets for next fall.

—Karyn D. Collins