Mathieu Mirano’s technical acumen is obvious. Over the past couple of seasons, Mirano has demonstrated that he is adept at manipulating fabric to suit his point of view and finding that delicate synthesis between hard and soft. Like many young designers, Mirano likes to mix fabrics—tulle, and chiffon with feathers, leather with lace, velvet with organza. And in previous collections Mirano has had a fascination with mixing traditional fabrics with macabre embellishments—reptile vertebrae and the sundry.
This spring 2014 collection was no exception. Drawing inspiration from lingerie, Mirano ingeniously transitioned what is normally thought as undergarments to outerwear. OK, it has been done before, no mystery there. However, Mirano is one of the few designers that have made a successful run at this bold statement.
Mirano incorporates some trends from past seasons, but in new and interesting combinations. Lace paired with metallic hardware accessories, the exotic skins of python and alligator and metallic bustiers paired with high-waisted slacks highlight Mirano’s innovative way of mixing fabrications and trends. Also, Mirano combines peek-a-boo diaphanous fabrics with lace and feathers in ways that are both sensuous and fashion forward without being vulgar.
Standouts in this collection are Mirano’s gold pheasant feathered cocktail dress with floral embellishments and brassiere outerwear, metallic gold, cropped moto jacket with gold metallic bustier and high-waisted white slacks and shocking red pencil dress with burgundy monkey-haired jacket.
—William S. Gooch
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