Michael Costello Spring 2016

Everyone is entitled to a comeback. After a stunning, bold, and auspicious spring  2015 collection, Michael Costello’s fall 2015 collection was a letdown. Where Costello’s spring 2015 collection was chic, sophisticated with a bit of risk thrown in for good measure and appropriate shock value—no designer on the current scene does plunging necklines and peek-a-boo illusions better than Costello—Costello’s fall 2015 collection lacked vision, nuance and depth and most of all sophistication and to some extent taste.

That said; Costello’s spring 2016 collection is his go-back-to-the-drawing board, turnaround collection. This collection, though it referenced a variety of styles from the 70s, was funneled through a prism of modernity, sensuality, great style and charm. Where is the past some of Costello’s looks bordered slightly on outré, leave-on-your-money-on-the-nightstand fare, this collection was sophisticated with just enough va va voom to appeal to a wide variety of women.

True to form there were lots of plunging necklines, high slits, cutouts and illusions that revealed lots of flesh that is a part of Costello’s signature look. However, this collection was more forgiving for the female customer that doesn’t have a perfect figure or look like a runway model. And instead of looks that project in-your-face sensuality, this outing was more sexually subdued with a stronger emphasis on sophistication and freedom of movement.

Costello also elevated this collection by employing dazzling, jeweled belts as hardware and embellishing shoulders with jeweled epaulets and plunging necklines with layers of jeweled embroidery. None of these additional embellishments weighed down the collection of made it seem like a matronly night at the opera. Costello’s high slits, exposed décolletage and Veronica Lake–like coifs placed this outing in the now/next fashion constellation.

Though there were looks and some styling in the collection that didn’t quite register, overall this collection was a bonafide hit. And the addition of bags from the House of Borel were just the right accessory to give some looks in the collection that additional street credibility, youthfulness,  and modern currency that goes beyond red-carpet glamour.

Costello in this outing brings sexy back in a way that is appealing to the modern woman who is not afraid of her own sultriness, strength and power, commanding attention while seducing and bringing onlookers into her world. And her world is a universe of confidence, regality, and charm. Bravo Costello!!

—William S. Gooch