Monique Lhuillier Fall 2015

Monique Lhuillier has done it again!! Just when you think you have figured out her design aesthetic, Lhuillier does the unexpected. From inspirations that are almost literal—remember her spring 2011 “Garden of Eden” collection—to collections that are floral-inspired, seascape-inspired, even movement and exercise inspired, what is consistent about each collection is that there will be plenty of red-carpet looks.

For Lhuillier’s fall 2015 collection there were several red-carpet looks, lots of bold color, and a plethora of currents trends embedded in the clothing. However, this collection reflects Lhuillier evolution in design aesthetic. Lhuillier has evolved beyond just making beautiful gowns; she is now solidly projecting toward re-creating and challenging what the fashion cognoscenti and consumers look for when they think of red carpet and evening luxury clothes. Now don’t get it twisted, Lhuillier’s clothes are still exquisitely beautiful; however, her design aesthetic has developed a steely sophistication that goes several iterations beyond just pretty clothes.

In this collection, Lhuillier has abandoned the tulle skirts and corseted, red-carpet ready gowns that had become her signature look. In their stead, Lhuillier—inspired by mid-70s glam, the 1920s and believe it or not, Kate Moss— synchronized all these influences into seamless collection that reveals her true evolved voice.

Though the collection opened with the pedestrian, but beautiful body-hugging lace dresses, Lhuillier turned the volume up with high-slit, diaphanous silk charmeuse gowns in burgundy, teal, amethyst, and saffron. Lhuillier also incorporated shearling coats in a variety of colors with lacy, star-embellished bodysuits underneath.  Some of standouts in the collection were Lhuillier’s sequined-embellished teal gowns.

The final tableau of models standing in the seated area usually reserved for show attendees was a fantastic exclamation point to the end of the show. It also was a forecast of where New York Fashion Week is heading; more dramatic shows customized for a smaller audience. Consider, Merecedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center is no more. Industry professionals gird your loins, it is going to be a bumpy and exciting spring 2016 season.

—William S. Gooch