Perry Ellis Spring 2016

Perry Ellis has gone through a round table of creative directors since the death of its eponymous founder almost thirty years ago. Of all the designers who have been at the helm of this iconic American menswear brand, perhaps, Michael Maccari’s is the most fashion-forward/next menswear designer that can take this iconic brand into if not the next century, definitely into the next decade.

At a perfunctory glance of the Perry Ellis spring 2016 collection, very little seems to have changed. There were the typical classic Perry Ellis suits, American sportswear classics that don’t necessarily break the mold or reposition the iconic brand. However, at a deeper level this is almost a new Perry Ellis. And the evolution is much needed.

In a menswear season where designers really didn’t have much to say or what they said probably fell on industry professionals’ deaf ears, Maccari demonstrated in this outing that not only does he have the ability to keep the conversation going about Perry Ellis, but he is writing a new script based on innovative fabrics and a unique understanding of how the modern man wants to dress.

His modern man is not afraid of color; in fact, he embraces it. He is comfortable enough in his masculinity to experiment with softer silhouettes. Maccari’s man also understands how to embrace trends without being overpowered by them. (Maccari’s ingenious way of incorporating the active wear trend by putting workout leggings under shorts was something short of brilliant.)

And above all, the new Perry Ellis guy is still sophisticated, chic, and also current and youthful. This was the significant key to the success of this collection. Maccari was deft at expanding the Perry Ellis oeuvre into a new distillation on hipness; youth and vitality without abandoning the signature look.

There were too many fantastic looks in this spring 2016 collection to just call out a few. However, for the sake of our readers Fashion Reverie will oblige, with the iridescent suits and jackets being at the top of our lists.

Our standout picks include Maccari's iridescent waffle suit in Khaki, silk blend striped shirt in white with navy track pants, sheer ref jacket in copper with striped suit and compression pants in copper, hand-knit Intarsia sweater in navy with bonded indigo jogger pants, and linen suit in gold rush with silk blend plaid white shirt compression and gym pants in gold rush.

—William S. Gooch