Is James Bond in the building? You would have thought so if you witnessed Robert Geller’s fall 2016 runway presentation. All the Bond-like props were front and center; spy attaché case, chic trend coat, derby hats slyly tipped over the eye and let’s not forget models with swagger.
Still, James Bond was not quite the inspiration for Robert Geller’s fall 2016 collection. The German-born Geller took inspiration from a German’s children’s book, The Grey Gentlemen. This German children’s story centers on men in in grey suits with a grey complexion who come to a German town suck time and all the life and joy out of the town. Not a Grimm fairy tale but grim nonetheless.
It is very clear for Geller’s fall 2016 collection that he understands where menswear is going. With is combination of familiar silhouettes that work paired with unconventional silhouettes—man skirts, man aprons, gaucho-like pants, Geller has ingeniously discovered how to mix the old with the new without alienating his audience. And while there is a strong nod toward classic looks in this collection and is a prominent project to where menswear is heading.
Also, what also works in this collection is Geller’s ability to dress his guy at almost every jointure of his day. There is great outwear, looks that are more casual and looks for that adventurous dude whose fashion risk taking is chic and exciting.
In addition to the combination of classic and unconventional silhouettes this fall 2016 collection contains an interesting range of colors and fabrications. Geller introduces his fall 2016 design aesthetic with mostly neutral colors, greys, black, browns and some navy; however, by the end of runway show that was a dynamic injection of color evidenced in deep purple, bordeaux, and mustard. Coincidentally, this varying color palette was matched by Geller’s inclusion of fabrications that included velvet, satin, and light-as-air cupro cotton.
Geller is getting it right; truly understanding that the modern male consumer’s thirst for interesting and innovative clothes is wider than previously assumed. And retailers are starting to stand up and take notice. We anxiously await his spring 2017 collection!!
—William S. Gooch
velvet, satin, and light-as-air cupro cotton
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