Silent But Deadly: Fashion Designers/Brands on the Rise

Fashion Weeks are typically headlined by major designers, whether it’s brands like Michael Kors and Coach in New York or Chanel and Dior in Paris. However, amidst all the household names, there are young, scrappy, independent designers and brands that help give the fashion industry a fresh and unexpected spirit. The new blood of designers might not be big names now, but many have amassed cult followings and loyal fans.

It’s often the independent designers of yesterday who become the future household names of tomorrow. Never forget, Jeremy Scott had his eponymous label before he spent a decade as creative director of Moschino. At Fashion Reverie, we like to refer to these designers as silent but deadly.

Many fashion designers are starting to make waves in the fashion industry, both in New York and across the pond. Here is a curated list of designers to watch for in fashion season to come.

Nicholas Raefski

Nicholas Raefski first made his debut at New York Men’s Day, an annual showcase during New York Fashion Week of emerging menswear designers. For several seasons, he participated in the annual menswear event, and eventually began showing presentations on his own, slowly building his following as a menswear aficionado. He’s also expanded his brand into women’s wear and has been earning attention from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the governing fashion body in the US. His designs have been worn by TikTok star Chris Olsen, actor Matt Rogers, and Chance the Rapper.

Atelier Cillian

Atelier Cillian is another emerging New York men’s brand to take notice of. Atelier Cillian is the brainchild of designer Stephen Mikhail.

Atelier Cillian also got its start at New York Men’s Day and has become an in-demand luxury brand by many celebrity stylists. The brand was recently worn by Grammy winner Jon Batiste for his Coachella performance, and has also been worn by musician Machine Gun Kelly, actor Neil Patrick Harris, and journalist Ronan Farrow.

Cucculleli Shaheen

Anthony Cucculelli and Anna Rose Shaheen might be under-the-radar names, but their resumes speak for themselves. Before launching their duo label, Cuccuelli Shaheen, the pair stacked their resumes with stints at major design houses, including Emilio Pucci, Oscar de la Renta, Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Roberto Cavalli.

Their opulent and bedazzled dresses and gowns have earned the fandom of supermodel Coco Rocha, singer Rita Ora, and actress Indya Moore. They have also acquired notable retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman, Moda Operandi, and Harvey Nichols in the UK.

Wiederhoeft

Jackson Wiederhoef’s love of theater, dance, and performance helped inform his early collections, which bordered on costume and pushed the idea of fashion as art. He caught the attention of designer Thom Browne and worked for Browne for three years.

His debut collection, “Spooky Couture,” launched in October 2019. In 2020, he released his first bridal collection. Between his bridal business and custom design business, Wiederhoeft has become one of the biggest young designers to watch in New York, having graduated from Parsons School of Design in 2016. His designs have been worn by rapper Ice Spice, singer and actress Dove Cameron, and playwright Jeremy O. Harris.

Marina Moscone

Founded in 2016 in New York by sisters Marina and Francesca Mascone, who are of Italian and South African heritage, Marina Moscone has defined itself by understated elegance and elevated tailoring. The brand has shown at New York Fashion Week several times to rave reviews, with critics and buyers regularly impressed by their modern silhouettes and luxury materials, ranging from satin to silk.

Their clientele has included first lady Michelle Obama, model Gigi Hadid, and pop superstar Rihanna. Their fleet of retailers includes Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and North Carolina-based luxury boutique Capitol.

Ashlyn

Although Ashlynn Park isn’t a name everyone would know, her work is recognizable. Park began her career as a designer and pattern maker at Yohji Yamamoto in Japan in 2008.

When she moved to New York City in 2011, she joined the creative team at Alexander Wang, producing pieces for Beyoncé, Madonna, and Rihanna. She also worked alongside Raf Simons during his time at Calvin Klein. Her label, Ashlyn, launched in 2019 and has become known for its playful approach to minimalism and approach to eco-conscious fashion. At every step of her process, she works to minimize waste, making her popular among sustainable fashion lovers.

Sabirah

Founded by stylist, journalist, and designer Deborah Latouche, Sabirah is a luxury modest wear brand attempting to showcase modest wear that will appeal to women across all cultures. The brand focuses on details, including pleating, drapery, and tailoring, all while using fabrics like silk, jacquard, and fine cotton. The word Sabirah is an Arabic word meaning “of great patience,” which is what Latouche has in growing her brand that dazzled at London Fashion Week this past February.

Helen Anthony

Helen Anthony is only a three-year old brand, but designer Naeem Anthony has managed to achieve many accolades in such a short time. He’s shown at Milan Fashion Week and had a stand at acclaimed Italian menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo.

The brand has also established a collaboration and store presence with Maurice Sedwell of Savile Row in London. Helen Anthony is best known for their colorful approach to tailoring, creating suiting pieces that are standouts.

Abra

Abraham Ortuño Perez started building his reputation in the fashion industry, designing for brands like Jacquemus and Coperni, before going out on his own and founding his label, Abra. While his collection is still young, he’s found his focus and footing in slouchy tailoring, culottes, and outerwear.

His true love is shoes and accessories, and he’s found a following for his large weekend bags, attracting a consumer base, similar to Mary Kate and Ashley’s oversized bags at The Row. It-girl actress Julia Fox has also worn the brand’s clothes.

Sagaboi

Sagaboi is a men’s fashion brand with roots in the Caribbean subculture “saga boy,” which came about in the 1930s as a masculine rebellion to fashion. ‘Saga boy’ is West Indian slang for a playboy or a man who dressed in a very fashionable manner.

This Caribbean heritage-inspired brand showed at Milan Fashion Week earlier this year under the creative founder/direction, Geoff K. Cooper. In addition to its strong following among his fellow Caribbeans, Sagaboi has also found a following in Italy and the UK.

—Kristopher Fraser

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Image credits

• silent-but-deadly-pixstory.jpg — Credit/source: pixstory.com.
• silentbutdeadly-nicholasraefski-1.jpg — Credit/source: nicholasraefski.com.
• silentbutdeadly-ateliercillian-2.jpg — Credit/source: ateliercillian.com.
• silentbutdeadly-cuccuellishaheen-3.jpeg — Credit/source: cu-sh.com.
• silentbutdeadly-wiederhoeft-4.jpg — Credit/source: wiederheoft.com.
• silentbutdeadly-marinamoscone-5.jpg — Credit/source: marinamoscone.com.
• silentbutdeadly-ashlyn-6.jpg — Credit/source: ashlynnewyork.com.
• silentbutdeadly-sabirah-7.jpg — Credit/source: sabirah.co.uk.
• silentbutdeadly-helenanthony-8.jpg — Credit/source: helenanthony.co.uk.
• silentbutdeadly-abra-9.jpg — Credit/source: abra.paris.
• silentbutdeadly-sagaboi-10.jpg — Credit/source: sagaboi.com.
• silent-but-deadly-feature.jpg — Editorial image.