Skingraft Fall 2015

Since first showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) a few seasons ago, Skingraft has expanded their design aesthetic beyond the skateboarder chic aesthetic. Though this design perspective in still prevalent in their collections, particularly in their menswear looks, the brand is not embracing points of view that solidly placing them in that constellation of new fashion design brands that has found that marriage between retail viability and cutting-edge design.

Inspired by young nomads trekking through the Peruvian mountains in search of new adventures and horizons, as well as the stories of alien activity—remember, legend has it that beings from another universe created Machu Picchu— designer Jonny Cota focused this collection on more wearable pieces that might appeal to that consumer beyond the skateboarder chic fashion set. That said; surprisingly there were more women’s look in this collection than in previous outings.

The Peruvian “survivalist” nomad theme of this collection was heavily expressed in the outerwear. From Peruvian-inspired ponchos and shearling coats to leather bombers and buttoned-down, oversized jackets, Cota revealed an urban street savvy that was missing in some of Skingraft’s previous collections. And instead of just going with the current cape trend, seen in so many collections this season, Cota opted to go for his take on capes and caplets by including ponchos in this collection.

Though the brand is aiming for more retail viability, Cota in this outing did not stray to far from signature looks that the brand is known for; which is a good thing.  Unlike some brands that strive for consumer appeal and loos their signature stamp, with just a few runway looks industry professionals and consumers can still easily identify a Skingraft garment.  Standout looks in the collection are the leather-embossed tuxedo jacket with extended crouch pants, burgundy and black stripped wool poncho, leather and wool stripped bomber jacket, and tan and white stripped leather stripped belted jacket.

—William S. Gooch

http://youtu.be/80nEuwU_9f0