Tadashi Shoji Fall 2014

The magic is in the details with the fall 2014 collection by Tadashi Shoji.

Shoji returned to a familiar favorite material for him—lace. His spring 2014 was all about lace, too. But to think “Oh, it’s lace again,” would be doing Shoji’s fall 2014 collection a great disservice. With his fall 2014 collection, Shoji presented a true master class in intricacy and skillfully wrought details.

A moonlit Moorish palace provided the inspiration behind Shoji’s lacework opus this time around. And the results were creations full of elegant, regal drama.

In many cases, Shoji referenced the distinctive patterns of Moorish architecture with cutouts mirroring the domes, keyhole arches, wedges and other shapes found in that type of architecture. The cutouts, highlighted in solid color laces with deceptively simple, nude-colored linings, dazzled whether seen in a brilliant scarlet sheath, a short sleeved white dress or a long sleeved teal gown. Shoji also included several capes of varying lengths, the most stunning of which was a long, red and black cape, brimming with swirls of embroidery, which was worn over a white lace gown.

Tulle and velvet also played starring roles in this coronation-worthy collection. Printed shapes danced across the tulle in bold combinations of cobalt and scarlet. Occasionally Shoji went overly fussy with gathered necks on some of the tulle frocks. But the final pieces more than made up for that transgression with Shoji turning to a couple of sparkling fishnet-like pieces that shimmered like leaded glass, and, as a finale, a series of luxurious pieces in velvets with clever chiffon detailing in the seaming.

—Karyn D. Collins