Theia Bridal Spring 2016

For spring 2016, Theia creative director Don O’Neill looked to the whimsical Art Noveau illustrations of Danish illustrator Kay Rasmus Nielsen. Nielsen’s work was influenced by the Belle Époque Era. Nielsen also illustrated such books as, “Fairy Tales by Hans Christian Anderson,” “Hansel and Gretel,” and “Other Stories of the Brothers Grimm.”

Inspired by Nielsen’s fairytale-like artwork, for spring 2016 O’Neill takes his bride on a journey through an illuminated enchanted forest of Victorian dancing princesses. His fairytale bride is donned in weightless transparent embroideries of cobweb, fine Chantilly lace, butterflies fluttering on silk organza, Art Noveau–inspired, hand beaded gown with bodices using 21^st Century 3-D technology.

The Belle Époque influences are evidenced in lacy, high-collared gowns and lace embellished, tulle sleeves. Although this collection does harken back to a more refined, restrained era, O’Neill successfully elevates this collection be adding touches of modernity expressed in crop tops, some plunging necklines, a digitally enhanced lace shirt dress, 3-D technology, and a couple of pant combinations. Additionally, O’Neill’s youthful take on the Belle Époque era keeps this collection current, effervescent and fashion forward. O’Neill’s infusion of color demonstrated in pastel floral prints and colorful digital illustration on silk organza also adds innovation and panache to this outing, particularly when the standard color du jour is white, blush, ecru and variations of white.

Though this outing has a huge variety of silhouettes from traditional ball gowns to mermaid and fit-to-flare silhouettes to crop top numbers, pantsuits and the ever-trending capes—recently seen in fall 2015 ready-to-wear collections—, this collection is not as over the place as the range of silhouettes and trends would suggest. O’Neill uniquely understands that the modern bride has eclectic tastes and does not stand by brand loyalty. Appealing to this eclecticism is necessary to expand any brand’s demographic, particularly in an oversaturated bridal market.

Standouts in this collection—and there were many—were O’Neill’s ivory re-embroidered Chantilly lace cape over sheath gown, ivory hand embroidered slip dress with tulle wisps, Nielsen-illustrated silk organza gown, pearl white pant suit, ivory laser-etched satin burnout ball skirt with re-embroidered Chantilly lace strapless crop top, silk organza shirt dress over hand-embroidered bra with silk pants, and white 3-D corset over silk satin face georgette ball skirt.

—William S. Gooch