Zang Toi Fall 2015

For over twenty years Zang Toi has made a name for himself as a designer of luxury women’s wear. Each season he excites Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week audiences with exquisite couture-like collections that denote his affinity for high-end, luxury garments.

For fall 2015, Zang Toi looked to the beauty of Venice for inspiration. True to form, Zang Toi thrilled audiences and his consumer base with a collection that was sophisticated, chic, and above all, lush. (The production could have done without the aria “O mio babbino caro” from “Gianni Schicchi”.)

But this is to be expected from Zang Toi. Beauty and sophistication aside, Zang Toi’s fall collection lacked the youthful exuberance that was so much a part of several collections seen this season. Though Zang Toi incorporated references from the 70s, like some many of his fellow designers, overall this outing bore such a witness to the past that many of the garments lacked the buoyancy and sense of freedom that should be a part of every collection. In other words, Zang’s fall 2015 collection resembled more of an homage to the 1970s than a reference point updated to meet the needs of current consumers.

That said; the collection was very wearable, appealing to the female consumer who has the leisure and deep pockets to go to a variety of cultural events and opening nights. (That particular customer is Zang Toi’s dominant sales base.) Still, one would hope that Zang is looking to expand his design aesthetic and consumer base beyond the wives of financiers and rich Texas oilmen.  And though the collection did contain a few sexy short skirts and dresses, those looks would appeal more to the consumer who believes her 50 is the new 30 and has the legs to pull it off!!

Standouts in the collection were Zang Toi’s expertly tailored two-piece suits with fur-collar embellishments, fur-cuffed jacquard opera coat, a hand-embroidered Empire-waist gown, and the finale look of a dramatic coat with a hand-beaded nightscape of La Serenissima.

—William S. Gooch