Zang Toi Spring 2016

Zang Toi looked to the Greek resort island of Santorini for inspiration for his spring 2016 collection. And the resort theme of Aegean Sea-referenced collection worked very well for this collection, especially in the earlier looks of this collection.

Zang Toi married the Santorini resort theme with 70s–inspired looks that at times in the collection worked well. Zang Toi’s neutral toned–garments were very successful and really demonstrated his craftsmanship and seasoned skill as a fashion designer. However, when Toi transitioned to the more bold, colorful aspects in this outing, the collection veered off track and unfortunately looked liked pedestrian looks that could be found in any 1970s Butterick pattern catalogue. Also, the fit of some of the looks were not quite right and did not flatter the body.  And where the neutral-toned looks had an element of youthful exuberance, the more bold, colorful looks seemed very dated and matronly.

Toi is known for bringing spectacular couture-like looks that always gets a lot of applause from his loyal fan base. Toi’s fan base was ever present at his spring 2016 collection as well. Unfortunately, where in the past the applause and accolades were well deserved, this collection did not merit bravos. And Zang Toi’s odd choice of opera diva Kathleen Battle singing negro spirituals weighed down the collection even more.

Still, there were garments in this collection that had Zang Toi’s eye-catching panache.  Standout looks in the collection were Toi’s cotton Greek Granny crochet mini A-line dress with ocean green plus ocean blue hand-crotchet trims, white Swiss cotton Oxford oversize shirt with platinum hand-top-stitching white couture cotton mini skirt, white hand bloomed mercerized cotton blouson cardigan with white gold-sculpted collar white hand bloomed mercerized cotton plus white gold racer back blouson mini dress, and white Swiss cotton organdy pouf sleeve evening shirt with ocean blue silk Shangtung front slit column skirt.

—William S. Gooch